Leaving the Peace Corps

Those who serve in the Peace Corps do so for a variety of reasons. For me it was a dream since the 60’s, and it lingered in my thoughts through the years. I continue to want to explore other cultures, and to take myself out of my comfort zone, and experience other realities. I am grateful for the experience, and while I cut my service short, it will always be a memory to cherish.

First – Big UPS (This is a popular term for saying what's up and a gesture of tribute. Big up uno dem. (Praise to all of them) to the other volunteers in my group – life-long friends, and for me the most amazing group of people I will ever meet and call family—PCV Jamaica Group 83.

Peace Corps Volunteers - Group 83 -

 Norman Manley International Airport, Kingston, Jamaica

After a series of ‘paper buffet’ exercises, and sleep deprivation in Georgia, we arrived in Kingston, Jamaica one hot March day, 2012. It has been ‘hot days’ in Jamaica since our arrival.

We endured 3 months of pre-service training, sometimes as a group of 32, but soon, we broke down into sectors. My sector is the Green or Environment/Agriculture Sector of 12:

Field trip to Holywell, the tropical mist paradise within the

Blue and John Crow Mountains National Park

We learned the language (Patois), customs, food, agricultural practices, resources and challenges. We laughed together, cried, studied, drank Blue Mountain Coffee, and had a few sips of Jamaican rum plus… We were armed with the knowledge and skills to succeed (thank you Anika and Dan). We bonded and were ready to serve at our sites. We had endured, learned, tested, celebrated, bonded, shadowed other Peace Corps Volunteers, and spent a few days at our site, and new homes / host families

Ready to board the bus … time to be sworn in and begin our service

Group 83 Swearing-In Ceremony & 50^th Anniversary Celebration, Friday, May 18, 2012:

Ceremony Grounds - expression of  'is this really happening?'

 Ambassador Pamela E. Bridgewater presentation of Certificates

Blessing and cutting of the ceremonial cake

(Dr. Carla E. Ellis, PC Jamaica Director, The most honourable Lady Allen, and ….)

Look who snuck into the picture of important people …

Our group after the ‘Swearing-In Ceremony & 50^th Anniversary Celebration’

 it cannot be said enough times, that is the most amazing, skilled group I have experienced …

Thank you PCV-Jamaica-Group 83!

So off we went to our sites – blog posts skim over the top of my experience. It is rich beyond words, and still I felt it necessary to leave early. A tough decision, which I thank friends (Peace Corps and beyond) for helping me work through.  The list of reasons to stay was abundant and lengthy. On the other side was the lack of access to health care should there be a need (no emergency vehicles, and 2.5 hrs. to closest hospital). This was weighted heavily on the reasons to return home. Then came the day when the scales tipped – a personal matter arose, and it was clear to me I needed to leave.

Peace Corps was supportive and helpful through the process – once I made a decision, things moved quickly. Within 72 hours, I had packed up, arrived at Peace Corps, Kingston and completed a series of dental, medical, exit interviews, shared time with friends who came to Kingston for good-byes, Devon House Ice Cream, food, wine, and the amazing Olympic 1-2-3 – being with Jamaicans to celebrate a historic 1-2-3 in the men's 200m finals...and my service was terminated. I was aboard Delta Airlines, on my way home. I will always be grateful for this experience, and to the Peace Corps staff and friends for helping me stretch, get out of my comfort zone, and experience another culture, sights, sounds, foods, and more.

In time, I hope to better pull together my thoughts about this experience, and share more of the amazing culture of Jamaica. The kind, caring Jamaica is seldom seen from our culture’s perspective. An example is one day, as I was returning to my site from Kingston, I was turned around (senior moment?), and could not orient myself from the bus stop to where taxis lined up. I asked a couple of Jamaicans and always was politely given directions – then one young Jamaica said “come … I will take you there … “ … and off we went the several blocks to where the taxi’s lined up. Then he said – I will make sure you get on the right vehicle …

I left my comfort zone, and lived another culture. I shared homes with three families (host families) in Hellshire, Woodford, and Mile Gully. I ate foods prepared in three distinctly different Jamaican ways. I walked the rural hillsides and was the only person who looked like me.

 I often wrote in my journal about my experience, and took too many photos … I felt safe … thanks to Peace Corps Safety and Security Ann Silvera, and the Peace Corps training …

And the stories continue …

HOLD OFF ON SENDING FUTURE PENCILS

...and thanks to all for sending them. Now I have enough for all PCV's (Peace Corps Volunteers) on the island (60 of them) ... for their schools. We are in the most rural, or poorest areas ... and the pencils will be greatly appreciated. I will spend future weeks/months getting them out to the PCV's ... and a SPECIAL THANKS TO DoIT, UW-Madison ... they just put the pencils over the top, and are greatly appreciated.

Taxi Tales

BEST FRIENDS … TAXI and CELL PHONE

While it may sound like strange friends, for me, when either is gone, I am isolated and alone.

My ticket to moving about on the island is always a minimum of three taxis or combo of taxis and busses. What looks like what may be a typical street scene with parked vehicles, is really a string of taxis in Gayle – my closest hub with grocery, internet café, and taxis. This scene is replicated in many towns, unless there is a“bus park or taxi area” – and where the taxis or buses are parked,determines where they are going (Ocho Rios, Jeffrey Town, Port Maria, etc.).

Taxis line the streets, and taxi drivers hail those passing by to see if they want a ride to X, Y, Z?

From inside the taxi, we wait patiently, until they are filled … and we watch the streets (or for me, I discover the local gossip, hear political or religious views, or discover the happenings of the area.

Got up early to catch one of the series of taxis necessary to get to
the JAS Jamaican Agriculture Society meeting ...should have been 4
taxis, but because I thought I should accompany the elder Mr. Blake,
and allowed him to lead ... it was 6 ... that was the start. We set a
record right off with taxi 2 - from Gail to Rio Nueva, as 13 managed
to get in for the winding ride. 5 in front (includes driver), 6 in
back, and 3 more behind the seat space ...next to me was the amazingly
beautiful pickney (child) about 6 or 7 in her crisp school uniform, on
her mother's lap. As the taxi wound up and down and swerved to avoid
potholes, she smiled at me and placed her hand on my arm. There it
rested for the duration, as did her smile.  From there it went into a
series of non-communications from Mr. Blake as to where to get off (I
would have been better off going on my own), and at one point we were
walking back to where we were to catch another taxi, and I was not
paying attention and tripped on a pot hole - wham, and down -- my left
knee and arm caught most of the fall, my computer bag helped my chest
from scraping against the pavement. I got up, brushed off the debris,
and could see that the knee was bleeding through my nice yellow pants.
Oh Well ...

Alas we get to our destination after a few more guffaws ... and I found
soap in the bathroom ... a rare treat, and was able to wash my pants
clean (forget about the crease), and the breeze was strong enough to
dry in on my body within a short time. ...

fast forward, the meeting went too long, but I am getting to know
folks, and had some conversations while there ... and I went to the
library for free internet (the only library that has wireless, and
allows you to bring in your own computer) - Port Maria. There I met
Vinai, and Robert (Jamaican Ag instructor from Woodford days)....we
went off to have a drink and talk / laugh about much ... and home I
went  ... three taxi's later, when I am home, I realize my phone is not
with me. I borrow Pops (house father) phone to call my cell, and it
goes to voicemail after one call. Pops says ... it is gone, it has
been stolen, and the credit / minutes have been transferred to another
phone.  OK ... I am really bummed. I use Pops phone to call my project
partner Dawnie and ask her to call Boops, the taxi driver to see if it
is in the taxi from Gayle to home ... and Dawnie seldom has minutes on
her phone (thank you poverty), so I know I am imposing. She does call
Boops, and no, it is not in the taxi. She calls back Pops and says it
isn't there ... so now I know it is likely in the taxi from Rio Nueva
to Gayle, and I don't know that driver. We call my phone again, and
again it goes to voicemail, so I am really bummed...and feeling like I
am somewhere in the universe, on my own, and totally disconnected.

I call Peace Corps, and they advise that I will need to replace my
phone, and if it is theft, can file a claim. I will be able to get my
sim card pre-programmed with all Peace Corps numbers replaced if I
have my paperwork ... good, I do, and my phone number will be the same.

I go to sleep with my knee healing, and my chest likely got a bruise
from the computer bag ... but I wasn't planning on sleeping much
anyway, as today I needed to go to Ocho Rios to replace my phone.  Off
I go at 7 am ... and my supervisor says ... your phone is ringing, so
it may not be stolen. Who was the driver? - if you can chat with him,
maybe he has it. I don't know his name, but know I can recall his
face, so decide to hang out in Gayle at the gas station where the
taxis gather on their routes. It wasn't long, and we spotted each
other, smiled, and I asked if anyone turned in my cell phone. No, was
his response. He opened the back door, and nope, none on the floor ...
then pulled up the back seat, and WOW! there was my best friend - my
cell phone - I cannot tell you how happy I am now. I take the money
from my pocket that was set aside for taxi rides to and from Ochi
($400 Jamaican Dollars) ... and give it to him. He's happy. Mostly, I
am happy because I have renewed faith in humanity. I walked over to
the police station (I tend to stop by and chat with them whenever I am
in Gayle). I asked if anyone ever brings in good news... No, was the
response, so I told them my story of the great taxi driver ...

my internet time is up ... hope you enjoyed this as much as I did ...
forgot to tell you the worst part - which is I tend to call Billee
nightly, and planned to ... but knew I couldn't use Pops phone for the
international call ... and knew I could not get word to her, and the
word wasn't good last night. I hoped she understood, and would not
worry ...I think part of my hope was realized, but worry she did...

and so it goes ... how to survive in rural Jamaica when your best
friend is a little black plastic box that is difficult to hear disappears?

Take a walk with me

Take a walk with me, and see what I see.…

 

As you leave my site and walk up a hill to the next town  - there is a ‘Welcome’ sign.

All the roads in the deep rural area, and much of Jamaica are in poor condition:

The views can be spectacular, enjoyed by goats, chickens, and whomever occupies the road …

My view next door – (center) a new SDA (Seventh Day Advent) Church being constructed, next to a small house on left. The SDA separated from it’s former self due to irreconcilable differences (I am told) right.

Down the road a bit – an old abandoned church – which no one seems to know the history or much history of the towns in general …

Shops and restaurants are everywhere – they open and close with regularity – both of these are closed.

Looking up in trees will often see someone harvesting (left) … or fruiting nutmeg…

Houses of all sizes and shapes … look up, down and over there … one with a ‘for sale’ sign …

And often the houses will have the graves of their ancestry in front, on the side or rear of the house …

Unknown purple flowers, and Chin Chin Tree. . .  a separate post (soon come) of the amazing blooms in the area …

Pencils Updates

The Pencils are reaching their destination: THANK YOU TO ALL WHO HAVE SENT PENCILS, ERASERS, SHARPENERS, and CRAYONS & BOOKS! We are preparing for Jamaica’s 50^th year of independence celebration in August, and these will make excellent ‘back to school’ items.

Principal of Mt. Angus Primary and Junior High, St Mary Parish,  is happy to have pencils to share when students ask for them (a loan program). 

Challenge to UW-Madison and all the Bucky fans – Don’t let Jamaica down –Match the 300 pencils donated by UC Davis!      

Other pencils received are on their way with other Peace Corps Volunteers. Between the 35 in my group (Group 83), and approximate same number in Group 82, the pencils are finding their way to volunteers throughout the island.  We are working directly with the schools, and the primary goal is to have a loan program, where students who need a pencil can borrow one, and then return it when they are finished using it.

Mt Angus School is about a 10 minute walk from where I live – especially if I go over the hill and through the woods, rather than the road. It is also the local shelter should a hurricane decide to visit. I am told that several hurricanes have come through, and Mt. Angus School has survived.

I am working with the agriculture program at the school, and have not yet decided about working with the reading or computer program. I find the principal to be an amazing, caring individual, actively involved in the community, and very grateful to have the pencils for students who lose their pencils, or parents cannot replace them.

Clearing the school garden (corn); prepping area for planting a cover crop:

Where in Jamaica is Mile Gully?

There are two Mile Gully's in Jamaica - One is on the map in St. Elizabeth Parish - I am in St. Mary Parish, and it is not on the map ... read on ...

Friday, June 8, 2012 – a day at Port Maria for a Police Youth Club and 4H Meeting, and while there and enjoying the ocean view, sounds, etc. ... I could not help but find myself scratching my head by the contrast of plastic bottles obstructing an otherwise perfect view.


CONUNDRUM No. 1 - how to get used to trash on a beautiful island.

Where am I in Jamaica? – Not on  maps, In St Mary Parish, near Dressike or Gayle in St. Mary Parish.

Beautiful , lush hillsides, sparsely populated, and often you can hear the running water of the streams that run through the area.

How to illustrate Jamaica’s diversity in climate, people, terrain and more? This with a backdrop of  statistics -  Jamaica is the 4^th highest in terms of poverty rate – or 43% live in extreme poverty - $J200 (US $2.50) day (and St. Mary Parish, where I live, is the poorest of all the Parishes).  Unemployment overall for Jamaica is at 14%. Inflation continues to oppress with double digits (10% in 2009, 11%, 2010…). Jamaicans spend 12% of their income on fuel based – electricity, taxis, busses, etc. Poverty sucks! … and still I wake up excited to work with a group of women who laugh together, work hard, and hope to give their children a better life…Mile Gully Entrepeneureal Group.We gather and clean eggs, and the conversation is rich as is the laughter … some  is about who will need eggs today, and how to get enough from sales to cover the feed …

 

 But if I back up and take a look at the community, for the past six years (plus) there has been considerable effort put into getting water to our community (less than 300 households). Without water, people go to the stream to wash their clothes and bathe. Pit toilets are the norm.

Last week, we had a meeting with potential funders (for a new project) and with a few phone calls to friends in higher places by this group to the Ministry of Water etc.)… it was revealed that monies are again ear marked for this stalled water project.  The wish list for the community consists of water, road (badly need repair), training, employment, street lights … and my hope … internet access. Because the water project has taken so long, it has taken a toll on the communities’ willingness to undertake another project.

An overview of my community is:

• -          Employment of household heads is mainly in farming and among persons 65 years and over
• -          Women’s employment is in vending and domestic work
• -          There is a fair level of building related skills among men
• -          High unemployment/underemployment exists for the 22-44 age range
• -          A grave situation of unemployment/underemployment exists among women
• -          A sharp gender stratification of skills exists, with women in the low paying skills.
• -          Among women, 61% are unskilled

Other activities that are bubbling up include:
Getting ready to make compost from the chicken coops for the green house ...

The high school-Tacky High, named for  the hero of the 1760 Revolt – Easter Rebellion, is in my nearest town, Gayle (where I do internet café) and where I get taxi’s for wherever I go:

Or I may go to Mt. Angus Primary and Junior High, and watch a local race:

Peace Corps Volunteer Swearing In

It is official, I am now a Peace Corps Volunteer, along with the Ambassador, Governor General, Jamaica Country Director, plus ...and the incredible group of Peace Corps Jamaica 83  - we are finished training!  Also practice picture, before formal final:

And my sector (Green/Environment) ... another 'big up' ... we did it! Training is over!

Our swearing in ceremony was at the US Embassador's Residence ... Very nice!...Below is the Governor General, Patrick Allen.The Governor-General of Jamaica represents the Jamaican monarch, and head
of state, who holds the title of King or Queen of Jamaica.

 Great Friends, Mike and Pat ... part of the over 50 group ... they are in education, and on the other end of the island (lucky the island is only the size of Connecticut)...and it is great to have friends scattered broadly, so we can visit often.

As always, internet is limited ... but I will likely develop a routine to come to the internet cafe on a regular basis, and ideally be better at blog updates.